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Puerto Vallarta is divided by the Río Cuale, with the older hotels, the commercial district and the new resorts to the north and the residential area to the south. The seaside promenade, or malecón, is the center of activity in downtown Puerto Vallarta; it is lined with shops, restaurants, bars and even several sculptures. At its southern end is the Plaza de Armas, the town’s main square. And just west of the square is the Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe, the local cathedral. Topped with a crown supported by angels, the church’s bell tower is the town’s most recognizable landmark.

On the hill above the cathedral is Gringo Gulch, a neighborhood built by the expatriate and vacationing Americans who were among the first to recognize Puerto Vallarta’s potential as a tropical retreat. Narrow streets keep cars out, making this area safe for pedestrians. The most famous home here is Casa Kimberly, which was once owned by Richard Burton and Elizabeth Taylor. To get to the house, take the stairs up to Gringo Gulch and look for the unique pink-stucco bridge over Calle Zaragoza. There are other interesting homes here, and you can see much of the surrounding area from the top of the hill.

The Isla Río Cuale, reached by the stairs that lead down from either bridge over the river, is an island haven of quiet and greenery in the middle of the busiest part of town. The upstream end has a few restaurants, but is mostly a landscaped park with a botanical garden, grassy lawns, a children’s play area and wide, uncrowded walkways. Along the tree-shaded walk between the two bridges are several souvenir stands, shops and restaurants. The downstream tip of the island is the site of the Museo del Cuale, a tiny building housing pre-Columbian artifacts and works by local artists.

About seven miles south of town is the cove that made Puerto Vallarta famous: Mismaloya. This once-secluded cove now has resort hotels, thatched-roof restaurants on the beach and a full selection of water sports. You can, however, still get a feeling for what Mismaloya was like when John Huston’s cast and crew arrived to make Night of the Iguana. On the south side of the cove, at the top of the palm-covered hill, stands Parque Iguana, created from the ruins of the movie set. The unique facility features a hilltop restaurant, caged iguanas and a place where you can enjoy some good shoreline snorkeling. Whether you’ve seen the movie or not, your climb up to the set will be rewarded with magnificent views of Mismaloya and the bay beyond.

In Nuevo Vallarta, located just north of the airport, you will find the Marina Vallarta complex, which features deluxe hotels, a championship golf course and a world-class marina. Here you will also find the Vidafel Aqua Park, an excellent place for family fun. The two-acre park features four water slides and tubes, a large pool for swimming, a splashing pool for kids (complete with cartoon characters and animal figures) and a winding canal for drifting on inner tubes. Lifeguards are located throughout the facility. Visitors to the marina should not miss stopping at the lighthouse, a landmark of Puerto Vallarta. Both the public aquarium at the base and the observation lounge on top are worth investigating.

Beaches:
Puerto Vallarta has three distinct beach zones and nearly 40 different beaches. The currents are generally quite strong, so it’s a good idea to stay in front of the hotels, where boundaries are clearly marked. By Mexican law, all beaches are public--even those fronting hotels and resorts.

Also known as Playa del Sol, Playa de los Muertos, located south of the Río Cuale, is the busiest beach in town and can become very crowded. Sports are widely available here, and the beach is lined with restaurants. At its south end are Playa Las Amapas, named for the scenic neighborhood that clings to the verdant cliffs above the sand, and Playa El Púlpito, named for the towering pulpit-shaped rock formation at the beach’s southern tip. Close to downtown but away from the noise and bustle of the resort hotels, Playa Los Camarones, just north of the malecón, is an ideal place to relax. There are no facilities except showers at a few nearby hotels.

Activities:
The resorts and hotels that stretch south from the municipal marina almost into downtown are all situated on the long arc of sand known as Playa Oro. Beach attendants here offer every kind of sport and amenity, and locals hawking silver and handicrafts meander about constantly. Although some hotels reserve their shaded tables and beachside restaurants for their guests, most allow everyone access to their beaches, showers and rest rooms. Mismaloya Beach has become one of the most popular spots for Puerto Vallarta’s visitors. Swimming and many other sports are available here, and you can snorkel among the rocks along the southern edge of the cove.

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