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Modern Acapulco is a far cry from the quiet fishing village that so warmly received Hollywood stars and other celebrities in the late 1940s. Where there were once two or three small guest houses, there are now more than 300 hotels. The population has grown from 20,000 in 1950 to almost 2 million today.

Acapulco is a party town. Relaxing is a secondary pastime there. Most people come to play hard every day and stay up all night. Not everyone may have such a high energy level, but those who like thrills and excitement will love Acapulco. Acapulco's natural setting is one of the most beautiful visitors will ever see. On three sides of its broad bay the rugged Sierra Madre del Sur mountains reach right up to the shore. Clinging to the cliffsides are million-dollar mansions with the finest views in town. All along the shore are clusters of modern high-rise hotels, each one claiming a slice of Mexican paradise.

The City
It's best to begin a tour of the city early in the morning, when the weather is cooler and the traffic is less hectic. Comfortable shoes and very light clothing are essential. The heart of Acapulco proper is the zócalo, also known as Plaza Juan Alvarez. The eight-square-block area is one of the few remaining vestiges of Old Acapulco. The plaza is a delightful throwback to the days when tourists were a rarity. Old men sit in the shade of giant rubber and mango trees, some reading the paper, others discussing the day's news, still others getting their weekly shoe shine. Time seems to stand still there. It is almost impossible to believe that a few steps away the city is bustling with activity.

The zócalo is dominated by the cathedral of Nuestra Señora de la Soledad, a bizarre structure built in 1930. The church was originally a movie set. Once the film company left, the building was adapted as a house of worship. Today, it is one of Acapulco's most recognizable landmarks. The cathedral has a mosque-like dome and Byzantine towers; its interior is fairly plain, with yellow-gold tilework and white and blue walls. There is often a small crowd waiting for a chance to touch the supine statue of Christ laid out in a glass coffin. Next door to the cathedral is a small shop selling religious artifacts. Across from the plaza, near the waterfront, stands a monument to Mexico's leading national heroes: Guerrero, Morelos, Hidalgo, Juárez and Cuauhtémoc, the last Aztec emperor. It is a favorite spot for taking pictures.

Five blocks away is the Mercado de Artesanías, also known as the Flea Market. The market is to the right of the Banamex building, and the way to it is clearly marked with signs. It is a good spot to buy inexpensive souvenirs. Just south of the zócalo is the Fuerte de San Diego, an 18th-century fortress built by the Spanish to fend off pirate attacks (see the "History" section). Perched on a hill overlooking the harbor, the well-preserved citadel is one of the city's leading attractions. The fort houses the Museo Histórico de Acapulco, under the auspices of Mexico City's eminent Museum of Anthropology. Fascinating and educational, the exhibits take visitors from prehistoric times to Mexico's independence in 1821. The collection of artifacts traded between Mexico and the Orient is particularly interesting. Along with the permanent collections, the museum also features temporary exhibits.

From the fortress, visitors can walk down to the city's malecón, a tree-lined waterfront promenade that is perfect for people watching. The street is the Costera Miguel Alemán, Acapulco's main drag, often referred to as The Strip. Since almost all the major hotels, discos and shops are on the busy street, the action never stops--from sunrise to sunrise. About a 10-minute walk from the zócalo are the dramatic cliffs called La Quebrada. There, Acapulco's internationally famous cliff divers plummet from heights of 150 feet into a 12-foot-wide, 8-foot-deep crevasse. Performances are at 1:00, 7:30, 8:30, 9:30 and 10:30 p.m. Among the best viewing spots are the restaurant, bar or lobby of the Hotel Plaza Las Glorias-El Mirador. Spectators can also witness the act of daring from the water by taking a champagne sunset cruise.

A short drive down the Costera from the zócalo, just beyond the Paraíso Radisson, is Papagayo Park. Built on 52 acres, it is one of Mexico's superior municipal parks, which visitors can easily spend an entire day enjoying. The park features a life-size model of a Spanish galleon, a racetrack with Can Am cars, a replica of the space shuttle Columbia, a lagoon with bumper boats, a botanical garden and an assortment of amusement rides. Its foremost attraction, however, is the aviary. Visitors can walk down shaded paths while all sorts of exotic birds fly overhead.

Another attraction the entire family will enjoy is the Parque Acuático CICI, located across the street from the Embassy Hotel, on the Costera. The outrageously designed water-theme park offers a full day's worth of entertainment for people of all ages. Its features include a wave pool, two water toboggans, dolphin and seal shows, diving shows, an aquarium filled with tropical fish, several bars and restaurants and a private beach club on the bay. Nearby, on the opposite side of the Costera, is the Centro Internacional Acapulco, formerly the city's convention center. Today, the site has been remodeled to house several theaters, restaurants and meeting rooms, as well as a disco. Three nights a week, a festive Mexican show treats visitors to a spectacle of typical Mexican traditions, music and food. East of the Centro Internacional is the Centro Cultural de Acapulco, home to a small archaeological museum as well as a wonderful exhibit of arts and crafts.

Outside Acapulco
Heading south out of town, the Costera Miguel Alemán turns into the Carretera Escénica, a scenic road, as the name suggests, that skirts the precipitous palisade from Playa Icacos to Puerto Marqués. All along the winding road are panoramic views of the bay and magnificent private homes of the rich and famous. To explore the hillsides off the main road, tourists can just turn off at any of the streets. Most of these streets, however, are narrow and steep, and many of them are not paved.

The village of Puerto Marqués on the bay of the same name is worth a visit. The ride down the slopes is a bit of an adventure in itself. The bay at Puerto Marqués is truly exquisite. It is like a miniature version of Acapulco Bay, only much of it is still undeveloped. One of the bay's peninsulas is scheduled to become the region's next major tourist development. The project is called Acapulco Diamante. Also off the main road, beyond the Pierre Marqués and Acapulco Princess hotels, is the Laguna Tres Palos, a freshwater lagoon of extraordinary untamed beauty. Boats can be hired to explore the area and view the wildlife. On the other side of the lagoon is Playa El Revolcadero.

Beaches:
For years, Acapulco has been a playground for sun lovers and water-sports enthusiasts from around the world. Its remarkable assortment of beaches, excellent facilities and variety of panoramic settings prove irresistible to anyone who enjoys being outdoors.

The most popular strands are in the bay area of town. However, there are several wonderful beaches outside the city limits. All the beaches mentioned below have rest rooms, changing facilities and snack bars. Beach chairs and umbrellas can be rented at almost all of them. All beaches in Acapulco are open to the public, including those near the luxury hotels. Swimmers should keep an eye out for warning flags. Riptides and strong undertows can make swimming extremely dangerous.

Red and black flags indicate that the water is not safe to swim in. Beachgoers should never swim alone or at night. Barra Vieja is a long, beautiful beach that lies about 24 miles southeast of Acapulco, where the Tres Palos Lagoon meets the Pacific. The surf on the ocean side is rough, but the lagoon's waters are placid. It is one of the prettiest spots in all Acapulco, with coconut palms, banana trees and exotic birds creating a typically tropical setting.

When Acapulco was still in its infancy, Playa Caleta was the beach of choice. Today, few tourists swim there, but the locals still love it. Located on the peninsula in Old Acapulco, Playa Caleta has some of the calmest waters in town. It is also the point from which boats leave to visit Isla la Roqueta. The Mágico Mundo Marino, located at one end of the beach, is very popular with children. The complex features both indoor and outdoor marine exhibits, along with a pool, two water slides, a restaurant, scuba lessons and norkeling equipment rentals. The best time to visit Playa Caleta is in the morning. Small sailboats, paddleboats and kayaks can also be rented.

Playa La Condesa is the number one beach in town. The long, wide strand between the Continental Acapulco and El Presidente hotels is a favorite of the international set. The pounding surf makes swimming difficult, but no one really goes there to swim. Lined with beach-shack bars and restaurants, La Condesa is the ultimate singles' hangout. Visitors can parasail, jet ski or water-ski there.

The waters of Playa Los Hornos, a downtown beach, are great for swimming, but its close proximity to the docks spoils the effect. The shore is lined with beach shacks, or palapas, where one can buy tropical drinks and snacks. Located behind the Exelaris Hyatt Regency Hotel, Playa Icacos is one of Acapulco's finest beaches. Its sheltered waters provide bathers with excellent swimming conditions, particularly in the early morning hours. The beach is rarely crowded.

Pie de la Cuesta is the official sunset beach of Acapulco. Every afternoon, locals and visitors make their way to the broad, flat strand eight miles from downtown Acapulco to watch the sun set over the Pacific. The view is sensational, and the party atmosphere is a perfect way to begin the evening's revelry. The water at the 20-mile-long beach is not recommended for swimming, but surfers like the steady roll of the waves. Some of the local daredevils entertain tourists by riding the waves. During the day, the beach is fairly deserted. Beachgoers can rent a hammock and enjoy the tranquil setting.

The sheltered waters of Puerto Marqués, a small bay, are ideal for any water sport. Plans to develop the area for tourism are already in the works. Meanwhile, visitors can enjoy the casual atmosphere and the lovely scenery while dining at any of dozens of thatched-roof restaurants lining the shore. Puerto Marqués is not crowded during the week. On weekends, it's filled with local families.

Playa El Revolcadero begins behind the Acapulco Princess Hotel and extends south. It is another favorite with the international set. Body surfing and horseback riding are the sports of choice there, as well as beachcombing along the long stretches of white sand. Although the beach is lapped by clear, shallow waters, the undertow can be a real hazard. Dolphins are often seen swimming offshore.

A 10-minute boat ride from Playa Caleta, Isla la Roqueta is a little oasis. The beach is one of the nicest in Acapulco, with soft sand, crystal-clear water and a gentle surf. An added attraction is the island's zoo. Snorkelers and divers go there to investigate the reefs, while windsurfers take advantage of the tranquil waters; fishing and waterskiing are also favorite pastimes. A 45-minute glass-bottom-boat tour offers landlubbers a chance to enjoy the island's waters as well. The highlight of the adventure is seeing the sunken statue of the Virgin of Guadalupe.

Boating
Most of the major beachfront hotels can make arrangements to provide a small sailboat or a Hobie Cat. They can also be rented at Playa Caleta, Playa Caletilla, Playa Papagayo, Playa Condesa and Puerto Marqués. The turbulent waters of the Pacific Ocean require skill and expertise to navigate. Novices should hire an experienced captain. Once a month, the Acapulco Yacht Club hosts a regatta. The sight of dozens of sailboats cutting their way through the bay is indeed glorious.

Diving & Snorkeling
Acapulco's diving scene is primarily concentrated around Isla la Roqueta, just across from Playa Caleta. The water there is teeming with marine life. There are a couple of dive shops that offer certification courses at various hotel. Dive packages include pool
instruction and lunch. Isla la Roqueta, with its rocky setting, is also Acapulco's premier spot for snorkeling.

Fishing
The waters of the Pacific Ocean off Mexico offers some of the finest deep-sea fishing in the world. Barracuda, bass, billfish, bonito, dorado, pompano, red snapper, sailfish, shark, snook, striped marlin and tuna are plentiful year-round. Meanwhile, the freshwater lagoons are good for carp, catfish and mullet.

Boats can be chartered for deep-sea fishing excursions. They depart early in the morning and return in time for lunch. The charter company will usually provide all the necessary gear and bait. Group charters are less expensive. A Mexican fishing permit from the Secretaría de Pesca is required. The office is just above the central post office downtown. However, the charter company generally makes all the arrangements. The license fee is broken down into daily, weekly and monthly rates. Fishing trips can be arranged through hotel tour desks or at the Pesca Deportiva office on the downtown pier.

Parasailing
Few places in the world are so well suited for parasailing. Parasailing off Acapulco afford a bird's-eye view of the entire city and the offshore islands. Veterans claim that the winds are best around midday. Parasailing operators can be found at all the beaches. Bargain for the fare.

Surfing
Surfing is not allowed along any of the bay beaches. However, there are places to surf at the beaches behind the Copacabana and the Acapulco Princess hotels. The key spot is at Playa El Revolcadero, just south of the Princess. The undertow off these beaches is very strong. Only experienced swimmers should attempt surfing there.

Other Water Sports
Almost all the beaches have motorboats for waterskiing. However, Puerto Marqués has excellent waters for this sport, as does Playa Pichilingue. Again, participants should bargain for the fare. Jet skis are all the rage now in Acapulco, and the can be rented at any of the hotel beaches on the bay, as well as at the Princess Hotel. The tranquil waters of Puerto Marqués are suited for windsurfing, as are those at Isla la Roqueta. Equipment can be rented at both locations.


Golf
There are three golf courses in Acapulco. The Club de Golf Acapulco, across from the Elcano Hotel, has a 9-hole public course conveniently located in the heart of town. The 18-hole course at the Acapulco Princess, 12 miles south of town, was designed by Ted Robinson and features several water hazards. Short, tight and challenging, the course is open to non-guests. At the Pierre Marqués, next door to the Princess, is an 18-hole course designed by Percy Clifford. It is considered one of the longest and best courses along Mexico's Pacific coast. Reservations for all courses should be made well in advance.

Horseback Riding
Horseback riding on the beach is a pleasant way to spend a few hours. Horses are available at Playa El Revolcadero and at Pie de la Cuesta. Riding is not allowed on the bay beaches.

Tennis
The Acapulco Plaza has four clay courts, three of which are lighted for evening play. The Acapulco Princess has two lavish air-conditioned indoor courts and six outdoor ones. The Exelaris Hyatt Continental has two lighted courts, while the Exelaris Hyatt Regency has four. The Pierre Marqués offers eight courts, and Tiffany's Racquet Club has five. There are three outdoor lighted clay courts at the Villa Vera Hotel and four cement courts at the Club de Golf Acapulco. All courts are open to non-guests for a fee. During the winter months, reservations must be made well in advance. Instructors are available at most of the above hotes.

Winter in Acapulco is divine—it’s warm and dry most of the time. May to August can be very hot, humid and rainy. Expect daily afternoon showers June-September. Year-round temperatures range 81-90 F/27-33 C during the day and 70-81 F/21-27 C at night.

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