Mexico
- Acapulco
Modern
Acapulco is a far cry from the quiet fishing village
that so warmly received Hollywood stars and other celebrities
in the late 1940s. Where there were once two or three
small guest houses, there are now more than 300 hotels.
The population has grown from 20,000 in 1950 to almost
2 million today. Acapulco is
a party town. Relaxing is a secondary pastime there.
Most people come to play hard every day and stay up
all night. Not everyone may have such a high energy
level, but those who like thrills and excitement will
love Acapulco. Acapulco's natural
setting is one of the most beautiful visitors will ever
see. On three sides of its broad bay the rugged Sierra
Madre del Sur mountains reach right up to the shore.
Clinging to the cliffsides are million-dollar mansions
with the finest views in town. All along the shore are
clusters of modern high-rise hotels, each one claiming
a slice of Mexican paradise.
The
City
It's
best to begin a tour of the city early in the morning,
when the weather is cooler and the traffic is less hectic.
Comfortable shoes and very light clothing are essential.
The heart of Acapulco proper is the zócalo, also known
as Plaza Juan Alvarez. The eight-square-block area is
one of the few remaining vestiges of Old Acapulco. The
plaza is a delightful throwback to the days when tourists
were a rarity. Old men sit in the shade of giant rubber
and mango trees, some reading the paper, others discussing
the day's news, still others getting their weekly shoe
shine. Time seems to stand still there. It is almost
impossible to believe that a few steps away the city
is bustling with activity.
The zócalo is dominated by the cathedral of Nuestra
Señora de la Soledad, a bizarre structure built in 1930.
The church was originally a movie set. Once the film
company left, the building was adapted as a house of
worship. Today, it is one of Acapulco's most recognizable
landmarks. The cathedral has a mosque-like dome and
Byzantine towers; its interior is fairly plain, with
yellow-gold tilework and white and blue walls. There
is often a small crowd waiting for a chance to touch
the supine statue of Christ laid out in a glass coffin.
Next door to the cathedral is a small shop selling religious
artifacts. Across from the plaza, near the waterfront,
stands a monument to Mexico's leading national heroes:
Guerrero, Morelos, Hidalgo, Juárez and Cuauhtémoc, the
last Aztec emperor. It is a favorite spot for taking
pictures.
Five blocks away is the Mercado de Artesanías, also
known as the Flea Market. The market is to the right
of the Banamex building, and the way to it is clearly
marked with signs. It is a good spot to buy inexpensive
souvenirs. Just south of the zócalo
is the Fuerte de San Diego, an 18th-century fortress
built by the Spanish to fend off pirate attacks (see
the "History" section). Perched on a hill
overlooking the harbor, the well-preserved citadel is
one of the city's leading attractions. The fort houses
the Museo Histórico de Acapulco, under the auspices
of Mexico City's eminent Museum of Anthropology. Fascinating
and educational, the exhibits take visitors from prehistoric
times to Mexico's independence in 1821. The collection
of artifacts traded between Mexico and the Orient is
particularly interesting. Along with the permanent collections,
the museum also features temporary exhibits.
From the fortress, visitors can walk
down to the city's malecón, a tree-lined waterfront
promenade that is perfect for people watching. The street
is the Costera Miguel Alemán, Acapulco's main drag,
often referred to as The Strip. Since almost all the
major hotels, discos and shops are on the busy street,
the action never stops--from sunrise to sunrise. About
a 10-minute walk from the zócalo are the dramatic cliffs
called La Quebrada. There, Acapulco's internationally
famous cliff divers plummet from heights of 150 feet
into a 12-foot-wide, 8-foot-deep crevasse. Performances
are at 1:00, 7:30, 8:30, 9:30 and 10:30 p.m. Among the
best viewing spots are the restaurant, bar or lobby
of the Hotel Plaza Las Glorias-El Mirador. Spectators
can also witness the act of daring from the water by
taking a champagne sunset cruise.
A
short drive down the Costera from the zócalo, just beyond
the Paraíso Radisson, is Papagayo Park. Built on 52
acres, it is one of Mexico's superior municipal parks,
which visitors can easily spend an entire day enjoying.
The park features a life-size model of a Spanish galleon,
a racetrack with Can Am cars, a replica of the space
shuttle Columbia, a lagoon with bumper boats, a botanical
garden and an assortment of amusement rides. Its foremost
attraction, however, is the aviary. Visitors can walk
down shaded paths while all sorts of exotic birds fly
overhead.
Another
attraction the entire family will enjoy is the Parque
Acuático CICI, located across the street from the Embassy
Hotel, on the Costera. The outrageously designed water-theme
park offers a full day's worth of entertainment for
people of all ages. Its features include a wave pool,
two water toboggans, dolphin and seal shows, diving
shows, an aquarium filled with tropical fish, several
bars and restaurants and a private beach club on the
bay. Nearby, on the opposite side of the Costera, is
the Centro Internacional Acapulco, formerly the city's
convention center. Today, the site has been remodeled
to house several theaters, restaurants and meeting rooms,
as well as a disco. Three nights a week, a festive Mexican
show treats visitors to a spectacle of typical Mexican
traditions, music and food. East
of the Centro Internacional is the Centro Cultural de
Acapulco, home to a small archaeological museum as well
as a wonderful exhibit of arts and crafts.
Outside Acapulco
Heading south out of town, the Costera Miguel Alemán
turns into the Carretera Escénica, a scenic road, as
the name suggests, that skirts the precipitous palisade
from Playa Icacos to Puerto Marqués. All along the winding
road are panoramic views of the bay and magnificent
private homes of the rich and famous. To explore the
hillsides off the main road, tourists can just turn
off at any of the streets. Most of these streets, however,
are narrow and steep, and many of them are not paved.
The village
of Puerto Marqués on the bay of the same name is worth
a visit. The ride down the slopes is a bit of an adventure
in itself. The bay at Puerto Marqués is truly exquisite.
It is like a miniature version of Acapulco Bay, only
much of it is still undeveloped. One of the bay's peninsulas
is scheduled to become the region's next major tourist
development. The project is called Acapulco Diamante.
Also off the main road, beyond the Pierre Marqués and
Acapulco Princess hotels, is the Laguna Tres Palos,
a freshwater lagoon of extraordinary untamed beauty.
Boats can be hired to explore the area and view the
wildlife. On the other side of the lagoon is Playa El
Revolcadero.
Beaches:
For
years, Acapulco has been a playground for sun lovers
and water-sports enthusiasts from around the world.
Its remarkable assortment of beaches, excellent facilities
and variety of panoramic settings prove irresistible
to anyone who enjoys being outdoors.
The most
popular strands are in the bay area of town. However,
there are several wonderful beaches outside the city
limits. All the beaches mentioned below have rest rooms,
changing facilities and snack bars. Beach chairs and
umbrellas can be rented at almost all of them. All beaches
in Acapulco are open to the public, including those
near the luxury hotels. Swimmers should keep an eye
out for warning flags. Riptides and strong undertows
can make swimming extremely dangerous.
Red
and black flags indicate that the water is not safe
to swim in. Beachgoers should never swim alone or at
night. Barra Vieja is a long, beautiful beach that lies
about 24 miles southeast of Acapulco, where the Tres
Palos Lagoon meets the Pacific. The surf on the ocean
side is rough, but the lagoon's waters are placid. It
is one of the prettiest spots in all Acapulco, with
coconut palms, banana trees and exotic birds creating
a typically tropical setting.
When
Acapulco was still in its infancy, Playa Caleta was
the beach of choice. Today, few tourists swim there,
but the locals still love it. Located on the peninsula
in Old Acapulco, Playa Caleta has some of the calmest
waters in town. It is also the point from which boats
leave to visit Isla la Roqueta. The Mágico Mundo Marino,
located at one end of the beach, is very popular with
children. The complex features both indoor and outdoor
marine exhibits, along with a pool, two water slides,
a restaurant, scuba lessons and norkeling equipment
rentals. The best time to visit Playa Caleta is in the
morning. Small sailboats, paddleboats and kayaks can
also be rented.
Playa
La Condesa is the number one beach in town. The long,
wide strand between the Continental Acapulco and El
Presidente hotels is a favorite of the international
set. The pounding surf makes swimming difficult, but
no one really goes there to swim. Lined with beach-shack
bars and restaurants, La Condesa is the ultimate singles'
hangout. Visitors can parasail, jet ski or water-ski
there.
The
waters of Playa Los Hornos, a downtown beach, are great
for swimming, but its close proximity to the docks spoils
the effect. The shore is lined with beach shacks, or
palapas, where one can buy tropical drinks and snacks.
Located behind the Exelaris Hyatt Regency Hotel, Playa
Icacos is one of Acapulco's finest beaches. Its sheltered
waters provide bathers with excellent swimming conditions,
particularly in the early morning hours. The beach is
rarely crowded.
Pie
de la Cuesta is the official sunset beach of Acapulco.
Every afternoon, locals and visitors make their way
to the broad, flat strand eight miles from downtown
Acapulco to watch the sun set over the Pacific. The
view is sensational, and the party atmosphere is a perfect
way to begin the evening's revelry. The water at the
20-mile-long beach is not recommended for swimming,
but surfers like the steady roll of the waves. Some
of the local daredevils entertain tourists by riding
the waves. During the day, the beach is fairly deserted.
Beachgoers can rent a hammock and enjoy the tranquil
setting.
The
sheltered waters of Puerto Marqués, a small bay, are
ideal for any water sport. Plans to develop the area
for tourism are already in the works. Meanwhile, visitors
can enjoy the casual atmosphere and the lovely scenery
while dining at any of dozens of thatched-roof restaurants
lining the shore. Puerto Marqués is not crowded during
the week. On weekends, it's filled with local families.
Playa El Revolcadero
begins behind the Acapulco Princess Hotel and extends
south. It is another favorite with the international
set. Body surfing and horseback riding are the sports
of choice there, as well as beachcombing along the long
stretches of white sand. Although the beach is lapped
by clear, shallow waters, the undertow can be a real
hazard. Dolphins are often seen swimming offshore.
A
10-minute boat ride from Playa Caleta, Isla la Roqueta
is a little oasis. The beach is one of the nicest in
Acapulco, with soft sand, crystal-clear water and a
gentle surf. An added attraction is the island's zoo.
Snorkelers and divers go there to investigate the reefs,
while windsurfers take advantage of the tranquil waters;
fishing and waterskiing are also favorite pastimes.
A 45-minute glass-bottom-boat tour offers landlubbers
a chance to enjoy the island's waters as well. The highlight
of the adventure is seeing the sunken statue of the
Virgin of Guadalupe.
Boating
Most of the major beachfront hotels can make arrangements
to provide a small sailboat or a Hobie Cat. They can
also be rented at Playa Caleta, Playa Caletilla, Playa
Papagayo, Playa Condesa and Puerto Marqués. The turbulent
waters of the Pacific Ocean require skill and expertise
to navigate. Novices should hire an experienced captain.
Once a month, the Acapulco Yacht Club hosts a regatta.
The sight of dozens of sailboats cutting their way through
the bay is indeed glorious.
Diving
& Snorkeling
Acapulco's diving scene is primarily concentrated
around Isla la Roqueta, just across from Playa Caleta.
The water there is teeming with marine life. There are
a couple of dive shops that offer certification courses
at various hotel. Dive packages include pool
instruction
and lunch. Isla la Roqueta, with its rocky setting,
is also Acapulco's premier spot for snorkeling.
Fishing
The waters of the Pacific Ocean off Mexico offers
some of the finest deep-sea fishing in the world. Barracuda,
bass, billfish, bonito, dorado, pompano, red snapper,
sailfish, shark, snook, striped marlin and tuna are
plentiful year-round. Meanwhile, the freshwater lagoons
are good for carp, catfish and mullet.
Boats
can be chartered for deep-sea fishing excursions. They
depart early in the morning and return in time for lunch.
The charter company will usually provide all the necessary
gear and bait. Group charters are less expensive. A
Mexican fishing permit from the Secretaría de Pesca
is required. The office is just above the central post
office downtown. However, the charter company generally
makes all the arrangements. The license fee is broken
down into daily, weekly and monthly rates. Fishing trips
can be arranged through hotel tour desks or at the Pesca
Deportiva office on the downtown pier.
Parasailing
Few places in the world are so well suited for
parasailing. Parasailing off Acapulco afford a bird's-eye
view of the entire city and the offshore islands. Veterans
claim that the winds are best around midday. Parasailing
operators can be found at all the beaches. Bargain for
the fare.
Surfing
Surfing is not allowed along any of the bay beaches.
However, there are places to surf at the beaches behind
the Copacabana and the Acapulco Princess hotels. The
key spot is at Playa El Revolcadero, just south of the
Princess. The undertow off these beaches is very strong.
Only experienced swimmers should attempt surfing there.
Other Water Sports
Almost all the beaches have motorboats for waterskiing.
However, Puerto Marqués has excellent waters for this
sport, as does Playa Pichilingue. Again, participants
should bargain for the fare. Jet skis are all the rage
now in Acapulco, and the can be rented at any of the
hotel beaches on the bay, as well as at the Princess
Hotel. The tranquil waters of Puerto Marqués are suited
for windsurfing, as are those at Isla la Roqueta. Equipment
can be rented at both locations.
Golf
There are three golf courses in Acapulco. The Club
de Golf Acapulco, across from the Elcano Hotel, has
a 9-hole public course conveniently located in the heart
of town. The 18-hole course at the Acapulco Princess,
12 miles south of town, was designed by Ted Robinson
and features several water hazards. Short, tight and
challenging, the course is open to non-guests. At the
Pierre Marqués, next door to the Princess, is an 18-hole
course designed by Percy Clifford. It is considered
one of the longest and best courses along Mexico's Pacific
coast. Reservations for all courses should be made well
in advance.
Horseback
Riding
Horseback riding on the beach is a pleasant way to spend
a few hours. Horses are available at Playa El Revolcadero
and at Pie de la Cuesta. Riding is not allowed on the
bay beaches.
Tennis
The Acapulco Plaza has four clay courts, three
of which are lighted for evening play. The Acapulco
Princess has two lavish air-conditioned indoor courts
and six outdoor ones. The Exelaris Hyatt Continental
has two lighted courts, while the Exelaris Hyatt Regency
has four. The Pierre Marqués offers eight courts, and
Tiffany's Racquet Club has five. There are three outdoor
lighted clay courts at the Villa Vera Hotel and four
cement courts at the Club de Golf Acapulco. All courts
are open to non-guests for a fee. During the winter
months, reservations must be made well in advance. Instructors
are available at most of the above hotes.
Winter
in Acapulco is divine—it’s warm and dry most of the
time. May to August can be very hot, humid and rainy.
Expect daily afternoon showers June-September. Year-round
temperatures range 81-90 F/27-33 C during the day and
70-81 F/21-27 C at night.


Acapulco
|| Cabo
San Lucas || Cancun
|| Cozumel
Ensenada
|| Huatulco
|| Mazatlan
|| Puerto
Vallarta || Zihuatanejo